things get old, and my pump was probably about 10 years old (installed but builder or previous home-owner), but the sole purpose of a sump pump is to sit in water. I had a hard time understanding the condition of my pump...I do understand how water could not be sucked up the column though...Check out the pictures:
Old Sump Pump
So I ask this man standing in my basement how much it will cost me to have him replace it...He says $260, passes me his card and leaves. $260 seems expensive to me, so I start checking out the net...Sump Pumps start $55 and go up from there. Even with the cost of installation and addition parts, I can't see how spending $260 for someone to replace the sump pump is even feasible. So I decide I am going to do it myself.
Old Pump Details:
HP: 1/3
Brand: Beatty
New Pump Details:
HP: 1/3
Brand: Mastercraft
URL: Mastercraft 1/3 HP Column Sump Pump
New Sump Pump
Shopping List and Costs:
1 x $66.99 - Sump Pump.
1 x $ 1.34 - Adapter 1 1/2 female.
1 x $ 2.94 - Reduction Adapter 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 male.
1 x $ 7.99 - Hose Kit (1 clamp included).
1 x $ 1.29 - Clamp 1 1/16.
1 x $ 3.99 - ABS Cement.
1 x $ 3.49 - Pipe Joint Compound.
1 x $ 5.29 - Check Valve.
$109.52 - Total including Ontario taxes.
$260.00 - Contractor Quote
$150.48 - Total Savings Doing It Myself
Details Of Installation:
**Assemble pump per instructions in the box**
Step One: Saw off old ABS pipe - I had to saw off the existing ABS pipe as I could not reach down the reservoir to remove the pipe from the pump. So, my outlet pipe is 1 1/2" and the hose kit I bought was 1 1/4".
Step Two: Remove pump from reservoir.
Step Three: Sand pipe surface to remove burs and to ensure a good contact.
Step Four: Install 1 1/2 female adapter onto existing pipe - Apply ABS cement around the existing pipe and stick on the adapter. Wait 5 mins for it to dry.
Step Five: Install Reduction Adapter 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 male - Apply Pipe Joint Compound to the treads of the male adapter and screw into the 1 1/2 female. Ensure this is tight.
Step Six: Cut Hose Kit to suit your needs - there should be joints where you can cut the hose, use them.
Step Seven: Apply Hose Kit to your newly adapted fitting with a 1 1/6 Clamp. Screw tightly.
Step Eight: Install Check Valve onto the Sump Pump (There is a connector in the Hose Kit, but it is not a check valve. Recommend check valve, but not necessary - Once pumping is complete, water that remains in the pipes will run back to your reservoir). Apply Pipe Joint Compound to the threads of the Check Valve and screw into the base of the pump. Screw tightly.
Step Nine: Apply Hose Kit to the base of the pump where you just installed the Check Valve with a 1 1/6 Clamp - Supplied in Hose Kit.
Step Eleven: Put pump in the reservoir. DO NOT LET THE MOTOR TOUCH THE WATER. Hold onto the pump in the reservoir for testing.
**Secure the pump with a reservoir cover for the long term.
Step Twelve: Plug in pump. If your float is under water the pump will turn on and drain the water.
Step Thirteen: Check for leaks and tighten where needed.
Step Fourteen: Secure the pump with a reservoir.
**Note that your pump may run a few times to get all the water removed if you have a build up. I let mine run for about an hour on it's own and went back to check on it...It was only turning on when needed then.
Also, if you have a build up of water, make sure your motor isn't too close to the hose...It might melt.
other things I found is that when the reservoir cover was placed over the reservoir, the pump motor would jerk a bit and cause my float stoppers to be hung up on the cover.
Disclaimer: These accounts are only my experience and educational purposes, your project may differ. Only use my instruction as a guide as not all installations are the same. I am not responsible for your interpretation of the above.
